Saturday, September 27, 2008
Some thoughts on Rome.
Rome is old, dirty, busy, delicious, repetitive, slow, fast, compact, aesthetically pleasing, aesthetically displeasing, intimidating, stylish, rude, contradicting, overwhelming, exhaustingly touristed, ancient yet very alive, manic depressive and undefinable.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Sagra dei Funghi
Another weekend, another trip. This past one was a school sponsored trip to Cusano Mutri, a small, small town deep in the Apennines mountains, three hours outside of Roma, but well off the tourist map. We went during the town's famed mushroom festival. Despite my aversion towards organized travel, i chose the trip because it seemed like a real authentic experience i wasn't likely to find on my own.
The weekend started out rough. The bus ride was long, windy, and nausea inducing. Finally, when we arrived at our little cabins on top of a mountain, it started raining. This rain would not stop till saturday night. It was also freezing, and i did not pack enough warm clothes at all. So the first night was kind of a bust--we went into the festival but not many people were around nor things open because of the freezing whether. The next day was bizarre and frustrating. For some unknown reason the directors of the trip decided to take us to a random trifecta of museums. First was a museum in town with the world's largest wooden spoon. Then a paleontology museum, and finally a crawfish lab. Don't ask. At this point everyone was a little annoyed and pissed off that they spent the money on the trip.
Then we got back to town saturday night and things went straight up 360 degrees. The festival was hopping, authentic, delicious, dancing in the streets fun. We spent the entire evening eating, dancing, and embaressingly attempting italian. I have never met more friednly and welcoming locals in my life. The town seriously loved us--they even played a Chicago song towards the end of the night. I have never eaten better than on this trip--delicious mushrooms, out of this world cheeses, and all kinds of desserts including the best crepe ive ever had. (with white nutella, baileys, and smarties). Towards the end of the night everyone took to the streets and danced away to what seemed like 15 different versions of the italian macarena. It was brilliant.
We woke up sunday to a beautiful sunny sky (finally) and took an awesome hike before heading back to rome. More than anything the trip was a big bonding experience for the 23 of us who went. Ive solidified some great friendships and am actually really enjoying the tight community that has formed living at the JFRC compound.
Tuesday, September 16, 2008
Ischia
This past weekend was the first unorganized trip me and a group of friends embarked on. It was an unexpectedly awesome time full of good people, good wine, and great views.
The group was large--10 people--but I started my travels early on thursday afternoon with my friend tia to get a head start on the trip. We decided to leave early on a whim and boarded a train to naples with no place to stay for the night; surprisingly, we weren't at all nervous. We randomly ran into kids at the station who were also going to naples and mooched off of their hostel for the night. I had heard all the usual awful things about Napoli: its trash, crime, and overall sketchiness, but was determined to come up with a better image. Sadly, all my expectations were met and then some. Naples is not a pleasant place to be, especially the area surrounding the train station which is where our hostel was. That night (after eating the most delicious pizza i have ever had) was a sleepless one, full of suffocating heat, loud bomb like sounds, rickshaw screeching, and other noises one would usually associate with a third world country.
We woke up early and rushed to the ferry station; within an hour and a half we were in paradise--the beautiful mountainous island of Ischia. What really made the weekend a success was RING HOSTEL. This place is a true gem--the whole place is covered in murals and graffiti of people who have stayed there, there were hammocks right outside our room, a rooftop terrace overlooking the mountain and sea, etc.
After a awesome day at the beach full of rock jumping, we all had what will be a night of legend. Almost the entire hostel went to dinner at the owner's family restaurant, where we had a delicious dinner, with good music (matt, katie, sarah[s], they played 'one more night' by stars!), and copious liters of homemade wine. Then, the hostel organized this event where we all piled into these tiny taxis with water jugs full of wine and drove away to a secret cove across the island where there were natural hot springs. We spent the next three or four hours lounging in this organic jacuzzis with the moon shining right on us--seriously no words can describe how unreal this felt.
The next day we split up and my group climbed to the top of the mountain (ill have pics up soon...i swear). That night the hostel took us to a local 'piano bar'..which is Ischia's version of a nightclub,...the piano is a keyboard, and they play weird techno versions of songs like 'september' by earth wind and fire. It was really really amusing.
I must end this post with a dedication to Anna, a kiwi who worked at the hostel. She is honestly the coolest person i have ever met in my life. Her life is full of energy, spontaneity, music, and new experiences. Everything she told us about herself and what she had done already in her life was exactly what i wish i could be like. She hung out, talked, and partied with us all weekend. I think she is only going to be working there for a few more weeks before she goes on tour in New Zealand so to all those studying in Europe this semester, go to RING HOSTEL as soon as possible!
Friday, September 5, 2008
Orientation Tour, Part 2: Siena, Assisi
The second half of the trip was what gave me a more fuller image of Italy. Siena and Assisi are both impossibly picturesque towns. This is something I had expected but was still in awe of, but what surprised me more was how much they are still living cities. I had figured there were mere tourist villages stuck in time. Instead, I found activity and culture all around me.
Siena was first. A medieval city set in Tuscany, it was rivaled florence but was almost completely wiped out by the plague. Siena is famous for the il palio horse race, which occurred a few months before my visit. Still, the city celebrates the winners of the race well into august. On a random tuesday night we walked through the city and came upon two huge competing parades and celebrations of the two winners of the il palio. Young and old Sienese beat drums, sang, and marched through town and closed in the piazza. However it wasen't a big spectacle, there were few people in town except locals and those participating in the parade.
The perfect contrast of Italy and the U.S. was found that night. Me and my friends spent the first half of the night doing as italians do: talking, people watching and having a few drinks at a bar in the main piazza along with many locals. Then we proceeded to go to the 'club' that all the other JFRC kids were heading off to. This club turned out to be a tacky pub complete with soldier boy-like american music, 8 euro Heineken carafes and a makeshift dancefloor. There were few italians in sight, just american tourists and sketchy men standing in the corner offering rooffied beverages. What I have come to realize, and the JFRC staff has helped me confirm, is that Italians don't drink the way American students do. They don't go to pubs, they don't think getting drunk is cool, and they would never offer going out for drinks as a first date option. And yet alcohol is incredibly commonplace here. It is served with every meal and sold at every coffee shop, gelateria, and grocery store. I think because it is always there, it is not a big deal, it is not something to get excited about or take advantage of. In that way, I think Italians are way more mature than us in the US.
Anways, the last leg of the trip was a relaxing time in Assisi, set right on an umbrian hill. The hotel we stayed at was unbelievable--old buildings scattered throughout town. My view overlooked the entire valley and was absolutely stunning. The town was a perfect place to get lost and explore. I was schocked by how easy it was to find yourself alone wandering quiet alleys while elderly italians went about the daily routines. Because Assisi is best known for touristy--yet awe inspiring sights--like the basilica of saint francis, i did not expect to find the local life that i did.
I highly recommend Siena and Assisi for anyone currently studying in Italy or planning a visit soon.
Siena was first. A medieval city set in Tuscany, it was rivaled florence but was almost completely wiped out by the plague. Siena is famous for the il palio horse race, which occurred a few months before my visit. Still, the city celebrates the winners of the race well into august. On a random tuesday night we walked through the city and came upon two huge competing parades and celebrations of the two winners of the il palio. Young and old Sienese beat drums, sang, and marched through town and closed in the piazza. However it wasen't a big spectacle, there were few people in town except locals and those participating in the parade.
The perfect contrast of Italy and the U.S. was found that night. Me and my friends spent the first half of the night doing as italians do: talking, people watching and having a few drinks at a bar in the main piazza along with many locals. Then we proceeded to go to the 'club' that all the other JFRC kids were heading off to. This club turned out to be a tacky pub complete with soldier boy-like american music, 8 euro Heineken carafes and a makeshift dancefloor. There were few italians in sight, just american tourists and sketchy men standing in the corner offering rooffied beverages. What I have come to realize, and the JFRC staff has helped me confirm, is that Italians don't drink the way American students do. They don't go to pubs, they don't think getting drunk is cool, and they would never offer going out for drinks as a first date option. And yet alcohol is incredibly commonplace here. It is served with every meal and sold at every coffee shop, gelateria, and grocery store. I think because it is always there, it is not a big deal, it is not something to get excited about or take advantage of. In that way, I think Italians are way more mature than us in the US.
Anways, the last leg of the trip was a relaxing time in Assisi, set right on an umbrian hill. The hotel we stayed at was unbelievable--old buildings scattered throughout town. My view overlooked the entire valley and was absolutely stunning. The town was a perfect place to get lost and explore. I was schocked by how easy it was to find yourself alone wandering quiet alleys while elderly italians went about the daily routines. Because Assisi is best known for touristy--yet awe inspiring sights--like the basilica of saint francis, i did not expect to find the local life that i did.
I highly recommend Siena and Assisi for anyone currently studying in Italy or planning a visit soon.
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Orientation Tour, Part 1: Verona
Just got back from the JFRC (John Felice Rome Center) orientation tour throughout the northern half of Italy including Verona, Siena, and Assisi. We stayed at three different hotels in four nights. It was an overwhelming, exhausting, and wonderful experience that definitely helped me see what I want my experience studying here to be like. So much happened and I felt like I was there a week, so I think I am going to divide this blog into three seperate ones.
Out JFRC class was the first class to do a massive tour of this nature in over six years, and I am pretty sure we may be the last in awhile. We left sunday morning at 6:30 am for Verona, which in in the Veneto region 8 hours by bus from Rome. The ride was incredible: first through Tuscan mountains and vineyard hills, then through the flat emilia-romagna plains. The gas stations in Italy are fascinating and SO different from the states. They sell everything--gourmet cheese, pasta, wine, books, CDs, toys, etc. And the food is delicious. Also, people take their time in them...it really is a Rest stop. Old men sip their caffes, families eat full course lunches complete with pelligrino and wine, etc.
Anyways, we arrived at the hotel "near Verona" around three. We literally got off the freeway and it was right there. So that was kinda a bummer. Luckily the hotel was very nice. We slept five boys to a room. Everyone got dressed up and ready to go in an hour or so for dinner in Verona and the closing night of Verona's world famous Opera Festival. Dinner was the first of many three+ course Italian meals complete with unlimited table wine. For a group of young, under 21 Americans first encountering Italy and their relationship with alcohol, there was bond to be some riffs. (I'll get to my conclusions on drinking culture in US and Italy later). Anyways, it was a wonderful dinner--the excitement of everyone to be making new friends and experiencing a new country was very palpable. Then in a slightly beyond tipsy state, everyone headed to the opera. You have to check this out to completely understand how incredible this was: http://www.arena.it/. The opera was Aida, a play a thought i would be familiar with. Little did I know it would be four hours and I wouldn't be able to follow a thing. I would say about 85%, including me, the dean of students and several other faculty, left well beyond the finale and hung out in the piazza. Still, I was awed and grateful for the experience.
Next day began with language/culture survival lessons at the hotel and organize by the JFRC staff. After that it was a three course lunch complete with pasta, mystery meat, dessert, and table wine. I could write a whole blog on these meals alone....ill just say they weren't quite as delicious as i expected of Italian food...but i guess you cant expect much when you are cooking for about 200 people at once.
The afternoon was spent in the small village of Sirimione on Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy (i think) at the base of the alps. It was absolutely beautiful and great to finally have time to relax and do what I wanted. Me and my friends scott and mike walked to the tip of the town, which is a peninsula jutting into the lake and spent most of our time swimming.
Ill close this portion of my account of the tour with what was one of the most ridiculous yet shamefully fun nights of my life. We had dinner at the hotel that night, and since the hotel was about a 30 euro taxi ride from verona, almost everyone stayed at the hotel bar, which our dean of students, Todd, so lovingly asked the hotel to keep open until 1am for us. Dinner was pure debauchery: 190 students went through 150 bottles of wine. fact. Then practically everyone stumbled into the bar slash gift shop slash office area and drank to an undeniably American extent. flip cup was played, glasses were shattered, and puking was to be found on almost all floors. The night was certainly a bonding experience for the fall 2008 JFRC class, though I'm pretty sure all woke up to feeling of slight embarrassment.
Out JFRC class was the first class to do a massive tour of this nature in over six years, and I am pretty sure we may be the last in awhile. We left sunday morning at 6:30 am for Verona, which in in the Veneto region 8 hours by bus from Rome. The ride was incredible: first through Tuscan mountains and vineyard hills, then through the flat emilia-romagna plains. The gas stations in Italy are fascinating and SO different from the states. They sell everything--gourmet cheese, pasta, wine, books, CDs, toys, etc. And the food is delicious. Also, people take their time in them...it really is a Rest stop. Old men sip their caffes, families eat full course lunches complete with pelligrino and wine, etc.
Anyways, we arrived at the hotel "near Verona" around three. We literally got off the freeway and it was right there. So that was kinda a bummer. Luckily the hotel was very nice. We slept five boys to a room. Everyone got dressed up and ready to go in an hour or so for dinner in Verona and the closing night of Verona's world famous Opera Festival. Dinner was the first of many three+ course Italian meals complete with unlimited table wine. For a group of young, under 21 Americans first encountering Italy and their relationship with alcohol, there was bond to be some riffs. (I'll get to my conclusions on drinking culture in US and Italy later). Anyways, it was a wonderful dinner--the excitement of everyone to be making new friends and experiencing a new country was very palpable. Then in a slightly beyond tipsy state, everyone headed to the opera. You have to check this out to completely understand how incredible this was: http://www.arena.it/. The opera was Aida, a play a thought i would be familiar with. Little did I know it would be four hours and I wouldn't be able to follow a thing. I would say about 85%, including me, the dean of students and several other faculty, left well beyond the finale and hung out in the piazza. Still, I was awed and grateful for the experience.
Next day began with language/culture survival lessons at the hotel and organize by the JFRC staff. After that it was a three course lunch complete with pasta, mystery meat, dessert, and table wine. I could write a whole blog on these meals alone....ill just say they weren't quite as delicious as i expected of Italian food...but i guess you cant expect much when you are cooking for about 200 people at once.
The afternoon was spent in the small village of Sirimione on Lake Garda, the largest lake in Italy (i think) at the base of the alps. It was absolutely beautiful and great to finally have time to relax and do what I wanted. Me and my friends scott and mike walked to the tip of the town, which is a peninsula jutting into the lake and spent most of our time swimming.
Ill close this portion of my account of the tour with what was one of the most ridiculous yet shamefully fun nights of my life. We had dinner at the hotel that night, and since the hotel was about a 30 euro taxi ride from verona, almost everyone stayed at the hotel bar, which our dean of students, Todd, so lovingly asked the hotel to keep open until 1am for us. Dinner was pure debauchery: 190 students went through 150 bottles of wine. fact. Then practically everyone stumbled into the bar slash gift shop slash office area and drank to an undeniably American extent. flip cup was played, glasses were shattered, and puking was to be found on almost all floors. The night was certainly a bonding experience for the fall 2008 JFRC class, though I'm pretty sure all woke up to feeling of slight embarrassment.
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