Hello all. About a week ago I arrived back in Beijing from a two week adventure through China's southern Yunnan Provice. I feel as if I learned a semester's worth of information and experiences in just two weeks. The trip was packed to the brim with activities both active and academic and was definitly one of the best experiences of my life. Yunnan holds special signification in China because it is the country's most diverse both in terms of geogrpahy (containing snow capped peaks AND rainforests) and people (it hols the majority of China's ethinc peoples.
The trip began in the region's capital, Kunnming. Warm, winter-in-california-like whether, the hippest looking Chinese people I've yet to see, and a very laid back vibe. This was considered a small Chinese city--just 6 million people(!). The next day we fly up to Zongdian (or Shangri-la), on the Tibetan plateau, where we experienced a high change in altitude that left a few of us mildy sick. We visited a Tibetan orphange and where the kids danced for us and we played games with them under the strong mountainous sun. Next we climed a mountain to a small tibetan buddhist temple. Definitly my favourite temple we visited on the trip, the surrounding woods were strewn with hundreds upon hundreds of tibetan flags. There was something about being so high up in the sky and listening to the sound the wind blew through the flags that allowed for a truly spiritual experience. Immediatly following we had dinner with local tibetan families in their homes and afterwards they performedtraditional dances for us which we emabressingly partook (sp?) in.
The next day we went to a large monastery that looked similar to the famous one you see in pictures from Lhasa. It was impressive but somehow felt hallow and done up for tourism. Then we were off to Lijiang. The driving in rural China is unlike anything I've ever experienced. There is never more than one and a half lanes, no shoulder, and the windiest roads you've ever been on. There is a constant presence of honking from our bus driver, who must manuever his way through rickshaws, bicyclists, old vans, walkers, and other means of transporation with varied speeds that share the only road in the area. Even still, it is clear this road was just built a few years ago. On thsi trip we stopped at the Tiger Leaping Gorge, probably the most impressive natural site we saw on the trip. Later we arrived in Lijiang, a very touristy but absolutely beautiful and impeccably preserved UNESCO world heritage site. We had a lot of fun going out as a group here and learning about the Naxi culture and customs. We also went on a breathtaking bike ride through the surrounding countryside and small villages the next day.
Next we took another harrowing bus ride to some famous buddhist grottoes. Then went on an other-worldly hike down to the village where we would be spending the night. This hike was part of the old Tea and Horse Carriage trail that tibetans used to transport goods from Lhasa into Dali. We then had a relaxing evening in Shaxi, a vacant town that is in the early stages of redevelopement and cultural preservation.
Next, after a failed woodcarving lesson, we were on our way to Dali, home to the Bai minority peoples. Dali is a city that has completely lost its soul. It has let tourism completely take over and it now solely caters to the needs of hippie western backpackers, selling bongs and tie dye in the stores, serving deep fried hamburgers in the restaurants, etc. Yet the worst were costumed ethnic women soliciting you on the streets to 'smoke some ganj' or pay for sex. One night i was asked 10 times if i wanted any marijuana--I was extremely disturbed all night and even had a dream that night about a chinese women coming into my hotel room asking if i wanted her favours. Maybe I'm just particularly observant of tourism effects, but I was extremely put off by Dali.
Next we were off again to the warm climate Xishuangbanna, an area of Yunnan with tropical whether and home to the Dai people. We went on a relaxing bike ride around the city of Jinghong and had a great relaxing day/evening, swimming in the hotel pool, eating Thai food (the region borders Loas and thailand), basking in the cool outdoors, etc. The next day we went river rafting down the mekong river to the town of Ganlaba. We then arrived at Mannuale Village where we had homestays with Dai families. This was THE best experience of the whole trip. The Dai people live in these elevated homes that look like large tree forts. We ate incredbile food every time we were in their homes, and the people seemed genuinely excited to have us and interact with us. One of my housemates, Kevin, spoke almost fluent Mandarin so he did most translating for us. At night they performed dances for us on the town stage aka outdoor basketball court. Then they lit off laterns which flew into the sky while we all danced to obscure english techno. It was fantastic.
The next day consisted of a grueling hike up Nannuo mountain, a blind message, and a weird chinese rave. The day after that consisted of a nine hour busy ride, aka death, and a halarious night out with Chinese people, one of which tried getting my friend Derek to perform sexaul favours on him.
Afterwards, we traveled to the Yi people village of Mushan for another home stay. This one was much less intimate than the last--my group stayed at a communist member home and slept in the cold under propaganda posters of women holding huge guns. As if communism and arctic conditions weren't enough, I woke up in the middle of the night desperatly needed to pee. Of course the bathroom is outside in a hut. Yet what do I find when I try to leave? The door is padlocked! Our host family locked us in! after pacing around the house debating what to do I decide to just grab a cup ( or two or three or four) and just let it go.
Finally, exhausted, dirty, and cold, we arrive back in Kunming for a grand finally. After a visit to the impressive natural wonder of the stone forest, we are out of Yunnan and back in Beijing.
This post is impossibly long and I don't expect anyone to read all of it. The end.
